High on the hilltop village of Macherado, Zakynthos sits the Greek Orthodox Church of Agia Mavra and Agios Timotheos. This popular church has a miraculous history. Regardless of how you feel about miracles, the story of this church is inspirational. It’s a metaphor for rising from the ashes, for starting over, for never ever giving up.
Once filled to the brim with icons, intricate carvings and frescoes, it suffered a devastating fire in 2005. Although much was lost in the fire, it’s being refurbished piece by piece. What has survived the fire is deemed miraculous by the local community.
photo ©Artravelist
In pre-Covid times, I was fortunate to spend some time on this verdant island in the Ionian islands of Greece. Although many see it as a party island, it has another side to it that’s eco-friendly, peaceful and natural -perfect conditions to rest and nurture your creative spirit. In fact, the Venetians named Zakynthos island The Flower of the East. Even the airport closes completely at night to not disturb the famous Caretta-Caretta beach turtles. I went in May just after the rainy season when spring makes the island burst with blooms and greenery. About 10km south of the capital of Zakynthos Town, is Macherado village, the 2nd largest on the island after Katastari. It has around 1000 residents.
photo ©Artravelist
photo ©Artravelist
history of St Mavra
The dramatic story of martyrs St Mavras and St Timothy dates back to 3rd Century Thebes (Egypt). The newly-married couple were tortured for refusing to renounce their faith. Then they were crucified facing each other. For nine days they comforted each other from their crosses before dying.
photo ©Artravelist
In the 14th Century, a shepherd found an icon of St Mavra hanging from a tree after spotting a glinting light. Legend has it that every day for three days he took it home to his village in nearby Lagopodo and every morning it miraculously reappeared back in the tree. So, the locals decided to build a church on this spot.
history of St Mavra’s church
The local community rebuilt the church in 1631 after a great earthquake destroyed most of the original structure. It also survived the 1953 earthquake that shook the island. Although badly damaged, it was once again rebuilt by locals.
The adjacent 37m bell tower was built in 1802 by local man Nikolaos Kivetou. It has a Venetian belfry. Its four bells are considered the most harmonious in Greece and can be heard from across the island. It’s one of the oldest churches on the island.
The church amassed a collection of votive offerings including jewels and gold, as well as carvings, icons and frescoes. However, the interior was destroyed by fire on 8th December 2005 and has mostly had to be rebuilt. There’s still a faint smell of the echoes of the fire mixed with the scent of the new wood carvings and a hint of the pine trees of the local region.
photo ©Artravelist
Amazingly, the icon of St Mavra was not damaged by the fire, giving it an extra dose of miracle power and mystique.
People have brought many offerings over the years. In 1864 King George of Greece and his wife Queen Olga were on their way to visit Zakynthos when a storm threatened to wreck their ship. St Mavra appeared from the waves and saved the ship by calming the storm. The queen then left behind her necklace and a braid of hair at the church to say thank you to the saint. These jewels have also survived the fire.
St Mavra’s church today
After the 2005 fire, the interior wooden carvings were remade by talented local woodworker Nikos Karamalikis in his workshop next to the church.
photos ©Artravelist
There are many local tales of miraculous deeds done by St Mavra. One local woman claimed she was saved from drowning by the saint holding on to her by her hair. People who have attempted to steal items from the church have never escaped unscathed.
The church feast day of St Mavra and Timothy is on the 3rd of May every year and another Zakynthos festival takes place around June/July (the Sunday after Pentecost) where the village comes together in traditional dress to eat and dance. The icon is paraded around the streets with a marching band and fireworks, followed by songs, music, dance and local dishes.
buy organic olive oil
Just a ten-minute drive from Macherado, you’ll find some of the best organic olive oil I’ve ever tasted at Aristeon ecological olive press in Lithaki. This traditional family business uses the latest centrifugal technology. But there’s also has a wee museum of olive pressing equipment dating from the 18th Century. Try the olive oil soap too.
