Did you ever walk into a museum and wonder about your own history, identity, longings and obsessions? Did you ever discover objects which had more of a direct line to your heart’s history than the history of the world ever could? Did you ever think you would discover that in a narrow street in Istanbul?
Fans of Orhan Pamuk, Istanbul’s Nobel prize-winning author, will be familiar with the concept of the Museum of Innocence. It’s a beautiful, almost-hidden gem in the heart of the exciting neighbourhood of Beyoğlu – an easy walk for those staying in the local area and an enjoyable hunt if you’re visiting the neighbourhood for the day.
An idea is born…
The book of the same name tells a fictional story of Kemal and his enduring obsessive love for Füsun, as told to Pamuk through a collection of everyday objects from 1970s Istanbul.
Pamuk has already started collecting objects for the museum by the early 1990s and buys the house in 2000. He is gathering real objects for a fictional life story. The local junk shops are a great source for finding discarded everyday objects.
Pamuk publishes the book in 2008 and begins sketching ideas for the display cabinets for each chapter. After a long time in planning, the museum finally opens in 2012.
Chapter 32 ‘The Shadows and Ghosts I Mistook for Füsun’
Getting there
From İstiklal Caddesi near to Galatasaray Lisesi, go down the steep hillside of Yeni Çarşı Caddesi and near the bottom of the hill, you will find Çukurcuma Caddesi and a street sign for the Museum of Innocence. From Tophane tram stop and Istanbul Modern, walk up the hill on Boğazkesen Caddesi. You’d be forgiven for walking past it if you didn’t look up to see the Masumiyet Müzesi banner. It can seem as if the front entrance is at the side and the side is at the front. You’d also be forgiven for thinking the museum was closed – there are no overwhelming queues like you will see at the Blue Mosque or the Topkapi Palace. It’s an unassuming 19th Century house on the corner of Çukurcuma Caddesi and Dalgıç Çıkmazı. When we arrive, the ticket booth is staffed by one of Beyoğlu’s beloved local cats blinking at us until the human version shows up.
“There was this wallpaper, of which I tore off a large piece to take with me.” -Kemal Basmacı, Chapter 37
Inside the museum
The idea for the Museum of Innocence grew alongside the conception of the novel. There are 83 chapters in the book and 83 cabinets in the museum – each one named with the title of each chapter of the book (in both Turkish and English). Many of the titles are stand-alone and enough to evoke nods of recognition.
Chapter 53 ‘An Indignant and Broken Heart Is of No Use to Anyone’
The museum has over 1000 objects over four floors. Pamuk underlines quite clearly that this is not a collection of objects but rather a collection of memories. No experience of the book is necessary to enjoy the museum. However, many people find the audio guide gives context to the museum, especially for those unfamiliar with the book.
Pamuk would buy an object that might be in keeping with his story and incorporate this into the text or buy an object which might inspire a new story. Likewise, he might find an object which suited a particular part of the narrative. It’s an inspiring way to create and develop a story.
“I recalled moments from my childhood and youth that I hadn’t even realised I’d forgotten, and it seemed as if these artefacts had the power to calm my nerves. ” Kemal Basmacı, Chapter 7
You are bound to find objects in the museum which stir up your 
own personal memories. Looking into one of the cabinets, I discover a number puzzle from my own childhood. The style, size and colouring are exactly how I remember my little puzzle and the long-forgotten joy of playing with it. Such a simple object linking to a seemingly simple memory, creating a multi-layered experience – no longer just a dot on your timeline. Memories come quickly and joyfully, like remembered dreams that are as real to you as if you had just relived them through time travel.
“this is not simply a story of lovers, but of the entire realm, that is, of Istanbul.” Kemal Basmacı, Chapter 83
The blurring of fact, fiction, memory, identity, love and obsession makes for an interesting, genuine – and genuinely touching – experience. A museum of humanity, celebrating what has gone but has not yet been forgotten.
“Let everyone know, I lived a very happy life.” Kemal Basmacı, Chapter 83
Free entry to the museum is possible if you bring a copy of the book with you – look for your ticket inside the book! ( page 713 😉 )
Chapter 36 ‘To Entertain A Small Hope that Might Allay My Heartache’
While you’re there…
Nearby, be sure to stop by Cafe Cuma at the top of the hill, for breakfast or lunch. Browse the tiny but stacked antique and junk shops that line the street as well as some exciting local designer shops selling top quality designs at reasonable prices. Check out the brother and sister partnership at 3rd Culture. Stop and greet one of the many cats which have chosen to represent each doorway or business you pass by.
Read the book
There is a little section at the museum on the making of the book. If you haven’t read the book you’ll want to give it a try. Amazon (affiliate)
